Quiet Haven

Havelock, an emerald isle in the Andamans, is not unlike a divine canvas in the myriad hues.

Text & Photographs by Vinayak Bhat Courtesy : JetWings

The darkness of the night was gradually edging away, making room for a new dawn. Yesterday's emerald sea was transformed into a crimson red as the sun appeared on the horizon.......

I was just finalising just last minute arrangements for a week long trip to the Andaman Islands when a friend who had been there recently, enquired curiously if I was planning on visiting Havelock. I could sense the importance he attached to that place. Havelock was a valuable addition to the long list of Andaman attractions compiled by travel agencies. When we landed in Port Blair the weather was splendid. The tropical climes and taste of salt in the air all added to the charms of the islands. The next four days sped by before we even realised it. The sun,sand,sea and surf all provided in genreous plenitude mesmerised us. Embellishing this experience was a bit of history here (the Cellular Jail that housed the British Raj's political prisoner) and a bit of adventure there ( speed boating and scuba diving). But the curiosity that my friend had evoked about Havelock Island, still remained to be satisfied. Understanding my anxiety, Mr. Velusamy, the ever-smiling manager of our hotel, announced during dinner, " All arrangements made sir, you will be heading for Havelock tomorrow."

Sailing away Havelock is one of 36 inhabited islands in the Andaman and Nicobar archipelago, which consists of 572 islands. It is about 21 nautical miles away from Port Blair. Excitedly, I awoke early the next morning and reached Phoenix Bay Jetty, the harbour for the Inter Island Shipping Service. It resembled a busy local railway station or a city bus terminus during peak hours. Children in uniforms with school bags, office goers rushing to their workplaces, hawkers and a steady stream of tourists milled around in the chaotic surroundings. We boarded the MV MUS, the big boat ferrying passengers between Port Blair and Rangat, touching base with several islands en route. The boat seemed overcrowded with more than 150 people as opposed to its capacity of 100 passengers. Around 25-30 foreign tourists carrying massive backpacks were conspicuous in the crowd. The boat ride spanned about five hours and was a very lively experience. We stood on the deck and watched the endless dark blue sea, thrilled to spot a few dolphins and more than a dozen flying fish. Soft strains of a flute accompanied our eager gaze as Mr Euve, a youngster from Switzerland, tested out a skill acquired during his Indian sojourn. A co-passenger spiritedly directed our attention to the fast approaching island of Havelock. The emerald seashore beckoned; the magical draw of the island had captivated us already.

On the islands The 10-minute drive from the jetty took us to Dolphin Yatri Nivas, the state-run guesthouse. Situated amidst towering trees and immaculate lawns, the cottages provided the wonderful views of the vast greenish-blue expanse of sea, like refreshing ambrosia for the senses. After a delicious meal, unable to resist the temptation, we hurried down to the seashore. A few tourists having beaten us to the beach, were already knee deep in water. My daughter discovered an entire range of delicate shells in different shapes, sizes and colours that occupied her attention. My love for ornithology got off to a flying start as I spotted a pair of multi-coloured kingfishers nestling on a dense spread of mangroves. All in all, a delightful introduction to Havelock Island! Come afternoon and we settled into the hotel's vehicle for another pleasant journey. This 14-km long drive took us to the western side of the island. We then stepped out on to Radhanagar beach, one of the most beautiful in this part of the world. The gigantic trees stretched right up to the shoreline, providing picturesque frames to the booming surf. The hotel had made provisions for colourful tents for those who wished to loll on the beach. We went for a long walk under the canopy of trees and switched over to stroll on the spotless golden-white sands. A few fishing boats bobbed in the distant horizon. Crabs made merry at my feet; a gentle breeze and the surf created by the waves, all contributed towards an unforgettable experience. And then, the ultimate sight that nature can offer: a brilliant sunset. The entire canvas of sea and sky changed colours gradually. First,a golden yellow and thereafter, patches of orange and maroon, and finally, an inky black engulfed everything. Understandably, we were reluctant to leave this spectacular scene behind.

The magical spell wrought by Havelock had not yet been broken. A wake-up call alerted us at five in the morning. In front of the Yatri Nivas, a different canvas was unfolding. The darkness of the night was gradually edging away, making room for a new dawn. Yesterday's emerald sea was transformed into a crimson red as the sun appeared on the horizon. Except for the gentle rhythm of the waves, a complete calm enveloped the surroundings. After breakfast, explorations of the island continued. Tin and thatch roofed huts dotted the village. The hilly slopes above these dainty little homes were being used to cultivate banana and coconut palms. This patch of vegetation provided a vivid splash of colour in contrast to the various hues of blue around. Oblivious to the beauty of their surroundings, three children were returning home nonchalantly with the early morning's catch of fresh seafood. By now, it was time to move on. When we reached the jetty, a small crowd had already gathered. We quenched our thirst with large gulps of sweet tender coconut water. The wait was soon over and we boarded the boat for our journey back to the mainland. I closed my eyes to recount stored memories, realising that a mere 24 hours had passed by. Who could tell that a day in paradise could make a world of difference I finally understood my friend's fascination for Havelock Island and fully endorse this spectacular isle to other hedonists in search of a haven.

Getting There

Jet Airways flies to Port Blair from Chennai daily. There are two to four sailings a month from Chennai (60 hours) and Kolkata (56 hours). For more information, tel: 03192-233347, fax: 03192-233778. This service goes via Car Nicobar once a month. Infrequent services embark from Visakhapatnam.

Accommodation

There are options to choose from several budget and mid-range places which do not levy additional taxes, besides premium hotels. Budget: Jagannath Guest House (tel: 03192- 232148; Rs 60-450), Central Lodge (tel: 03192-233632; Rs 75-150, camping Rs 40). Mid-range: Hornbill Nest Yatri Nivas (tel: 03192-246042; Rs 800- 1,250), Holiday Resort (tel: 03192- 230516; Rs 350-800). Premium: Fortune Resort -Bay Island (tel: 03192-234101; Rs 3,249-5,010), Hotel Sinclairs Bay View (tel: 03192-232937; Rs 1,900-3,240). On Havelock Island, there are a few options too, like The Wild Orchid (tel: 03192-282472; Rs 1,600-2,100).

Visitor information

Best time to visit is between October and May. The temperature tends to hover between 23-30 degrees Celsius. The airport is five km away from town. For more information on the islands, visit: www.andaman.nic.in. Port Blair's Government of India tourist office is open between 8.30 am-12.30 pm and 1-5 pm, Monday to Friday (tel: 031 92- 230066).