Their very remoteness has helped preserve their magnificent natural beauty. The evergreen and densely forested islands of the Andaman and Nicobar are home to ancient tribal groups whose lives are untouched by modernisation. Located about 1,200 km from Chennai and Kolkata, the group of over 300 islands forms an archipelago in the Bay of Bengal.

The most distinctive feature of the islands are the dense rainforests surrounded by thick mangroves, which begin in the sea and stretch into the coastline.

While great care is taken to preserve the pristine environment, visitors are also given an opportunity to enjoy the region's flora and fauna. Port Blair is the gateway to the Andamans, both by air and sea. The flights from Chennai and Kolkata take two hours over the blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, and the landing between gentle, green hills is nothing short of spectacular. If you are the adventurous kind, try going by ship for a different experience. You'll find the first-class cabins, consisting of four berths and an attached bathroom, comfortable. However, it is advisable to carry some packed food along, as the meals on ship can get pretty monotonous. The voyage normally takes 60 hours or so, but you reach your destination in the morning so there's no problem booking into a hotel or finding accommodation to suit your budget.   Port Blair is a charming little town with a leisurely lifestyle. It serves as the base visits to the surrounding tropical islands. Both South Indian and North Indian languages are spoken, as the residents trace their origin to different parts of India. The food is simple andwholesome.. There is even an Annapoorna restaurant in town!

Colonial vestiges   The British established a penal colony at Port Blair after India's first War of Independence in 1857, earning for the islands the dreaded name of Kala Pani or Black Waters in local parlance. The Japanese occupied the islands from 1942 to 1945 (World War II) and in 1947, Andaman and Nicobar became the easternmost outpost of the Indian Union.

Originally, the Cellular Jail fanned out in seven long wings, three storeys high, and contained 698 cells for solitary confinement. Due to the irreparable damage caused by an earthquake, a portion of the jail had to be demolished and a modern hospital built in its place. Today, only three wings remain.

As you stroll through the ruins of the jail, you are filled with a deep sense of gratitude towards the memory of those who were confined here for "daring" to take on the might of the British empire. A son-et-lumiere is held every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 7 p.m., and includes a scene that replays the chilling manner in which condemned prisoners were hanged.

Close to the Cellular Jail is the Andaman water sports complex, which comes alive every afternoon between 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. You can rent either a speedboat or a water-scooter and ride on the waves towards Ross Island. Or you can parasail for a fantastic aerial view of the harbour.

Speaking of fantastic views, the harbour cruise from Phoenix jetty is worth taking for the splendid views of the surrounding areas, especially Viper Island where the cruise makes a brief halt. In earlier times, this island was used to intern convicts and you can still see the remnants of gallows on the hilltop.

About seven km from Port Blair is Carbyn's Cove, a palm-fringed beach that is ideal for swimming, surfing or simply soaking up the sun. Afternoons are more pleasant at the beach, as the Cove faces east and it gets very hot between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Ross Island is situated at the mouth of the picturesque Port Blair harbour. The British had established this island as their exclusive preserve for a lifestyle that combined the luxury of colonial living with the heady loveliness of a tropical island paradise. But it was abandoned in the 1940s and, over the last 60 years, the rainforest has entwined itself around the shattered stonewalls. Deer and peacocks roam in the dappled shadows. There is a regular boat service that takes you to Ross Island from the Phoenix boat jetty.

Wandoor, an hour's drive from Port Blair, is a beautiful spot with a pleasant stretch of beach and crystal clear waters. Dive into the fun

The place is ideal for snorkelling and diving, offering a marvellous peek into the rich and exotic underwater life and colourful coral formations. Wandoor has been declared a National Marine Park.

Day trips to uninhabited islands like Jolly Buoy, Redskin and Cinque bring you closer to the mangroves and dense evergreen jungle. We boarded a boat bound for Cinque accidentally, but didn't regret it one bit for we had the beach and island entirely to ourselves for one whole day. Fortunately, we had carried food, water and snorkels.

You can always hire snorkels and anyone who can swim can learn snorkelling in no time. This is one great way to experience the underwater magic of coral reefs, shells and the fantastic variety of colourful fish. Even non-swimmers can experience the joys of snorkelling in shallow waters.

Car Nicobar is the most populous among the 19 Nicobar islands. Covered with coconut trees and the typical Nicobarese huts on stilts, the island is inhabited exclusively by the Nicobarese tribe. Domestic tourists can visit the island by obtaining a permit. On a visit to a coconut plantation run by a Kolkata company, we were amused to hear of `robber crabs' that climb the trees and `steal' coconuts!